Costa cruises mediterranean

A Modern Italian Masterpiece

Costa Cruises' long-popular "Cruising Italian Style" formula took on a new dimension with the unveiling last July of its second megaship, the CostaAtlantica, a $400-million showpiece distinctively apart in design from her six Italian/European classic-style running-mates. Instead, her decorative scheme celebrates and harmoniously blends Italy's past and present.

The CostaAtlantica's look and feel are not her only distinguishing marks. At 85,000 gross register tons, she's the line's largest, boasting bigger staterooms and suites, lots of veranda units, opulent public rooms, comfortable quiet nooks, and a plethora of lounges--plus world-class attractions unique to Costa on the high seas. Still intact among all this newness, of course, is Costa's trademark Italian-flavored trappings and approach to meals and service--main reasons why the line has flourished serving North Americans and international passengers for some five decades.

To a large degree the interiors concept is a testimonial to the life and times of acclaimed Italian film director Federico Fellini, whose stream of larger-than-life mid 20th century hits, Captain Massimo Garbarino reminded us, focused on an era teeming with excitement, romance, and beauty--emotions, he added, that underscore what Costa cruising is all about. Not only are all 12 decks named after the master's films, but Fellini-inspired drawings and some 400 other original works of foremost Italian artists--representing a sweeping range of techniques, cultural backgrounds, and inspirations--are also prominently displayed. Graphic blowups of black-and-white action shots taken by aggressive paparazzi of his stars (like Claudia Cardinale, the ship's godmother) and other glitterati further illustrate "la dolce vita" (the sweet life) of those inimitable times.

It may surprise some that the sumptuous interiors are the brainchild of American ship architect Joseph Farcus, who became a big name in the industry devising brashly colorful interior schemes for Carnival Cruise Lines' "Fun Ships." At the ship's dedication in Venice, he told us that his aim for the CostaAtlantica was to "create a unique viewing experience that combines the best of Italian culture, history, and arts."

Farcus's towering centerpiece, the glittering La Dolce Vita atrium, on La Dolce Vita (deck 2), sets the tone for those first coming aboard. It's a striking scene: soaring walls of Pompeii-style frescoes, marble staircases, elegant icicle-like chandeliers, rich-looking high-back leather chairs, and transparent elevators that glide 10 decks to a Murano-glass skylight. Venetian-style open passageways bridge the atrium, providing dramatic bird's-eye views of the panorama below. A long, curved bar and entertainment stage with grand piano are part of the scene.

Something's always happening in the way of music, dancing, and entertainment, from early evening until the cacophonous two-level Dante's Disco sputters out at 3:30 a.m. The watering holes dot the two main entertainment promenades, La Dolce Vita and La Strada (3) decks. The prize, Caffe Florian, is a smaller but faithful replica (complete with red velvet benches and historical artworks) of the legendary 18th century landmark in Venice's St. Mark's Square, where Cassanova and countless storied of history went to refresh. Costa has an exclusive arrangement to operate this plum. Its fare, exotic Florian coffees and teas, fine spirits, and tidbits served on toney Florian silver, is augmented by stringed trios--a deviation here from the original. Drinks are a tad higher than in the other lounges, but so what--it's a delightful (pigeonless) touch of Venice.

A stunning staircase links the Caffe Florian with the Piazza Madame Butterfly, a very large, gorgeously oriental lounge with a big draw, thanks to a king-size dance floor that doubles as a stage for those with the spirit to join in crazy contests and games. Oriental?, we asked Farcus. It's a salute to the opera's Italian composer, Giacomo Puccini, he explained.

Another gem, the Coral Lounge, far forward on Luci Del Varieta (deck 1), literally sparkles from walls of glass-encased imitation white coral set in a soothing blue-sea background. The 350-seat mini-showroom is for dancing and special events. On our week-long February sailing, resilient former Big Band singer and recording star Don Cornell belted out an hour's worth of memorable songs for an adoring, standing-room-only crowd.

The favorite before-and-after-dinner hang-outs are aft. Via Veneto Lounge (deck 2) features a small dance floor, while a pianist entertains in the Paparazzi (martini bar) Lounge right above. Most of the paparazzi photos are cleverly woven into the otherwise eye-easy decor.

Both lounges adjoin two-level Tiziano Restaurant, a work of art in itself dedicated to the great Venetian painter Titian. The decor is early 20th century, but it's adorned with large museum-type reproductions of portraits, canvases, and frescoes portraying Italian life during the Renaissance, plus photos of storied ships of an earlier Costa.

Club Atlantica, the alternative restaurant perched on E La Nave Va (deck 10) overlooking the atrium, is another jewel--both visual and, especially, culinary. Menu items are the creation of "idolized" Italian chef Gualtiero Marchesi (under exclusive arrangement), a three-star Michelin chef who fathered Nouvelle Cuisine. Dishes prepared to order in a small open kitchen are graciously served on exquisite Versace-designed china. There's an $18.75 per person surcharge (including tip), but it's a once-in-a-lifetime kind of treat. Stay later and you're into a classy nightclub setting, with dancing.

Even the Botticelli Buffet, just below, is adorned with fine paintings. This long room, taking up nearly a third of Ginger & Fred (deck 9), faces twin pools on one side, and a smaller open one at the stem. Ample food stations are scattered, but head outside aft if you want a breakfast omelet, or the daily ethnic speciality, or barbecue for lunch. Hot-out-of-the-oven pizza is available most of the day near the middle of the room.

The long stroll forward from the Tiziano Restaurant to the Caruso Theater for showtime takes you through the glitzy Fortuna Casino (if your table is on deck 2), housing all the popular games, as well as a small lounge area with a combo. Those dining on deck 3 pass a row of posh Via Della Spiga Shops, where fashions of haute designers--Versace and the like--are luringly displayed (they have less expensive items, too). The theater, a state-of-the-art showpiece in blue and brilliant reds, gently rises three levels, providing generally excellent sightlines. Armchairs and divans offer comfortable seating for original productions and featured performers. "Metamorphosis," a euphoniously scored history of the world, operetta-style, earned lots of applause.

Among other CostaAtlantica highlights are Costa's first internet cafe (combined with a library); and the glass-sculptured, two-level Olympia health club with top-line computerized equipment and weight-resistance machines, and a large saltwater Jacuzzi, plus a Steiner full-service spa offering massages and therapeutic treatments. A tennis/basketball court and jogging track are exercise options on an open deck. The Pinocchio Children's Room is home base for active, supervised kids' programs spanning the age groups, with a Virtual World arcade adjacent.

The ship accommodates 2,114 passengers (double occupancy) in 1,057 cabins, 678 of which have verandas. Grand Suites (490 to 650 square feet)--with deep, European-style whirlpool bath, bidet, and butler-service--top the 14 categories, followed by a good number of smaller (350-550 square feet) suites and 215-plus-square-foot units with verandas. Oceanview staterooms with and without French balconies measure 175 square feet; similarly furnished and decorated inside standards are only 15 square feet less. The unusually large percentage of verandas, hotel manager Attilio Sissa told us, was a major concern in designing the vessel; passenger demand for them just keeps growing, he said.

During the day, for those who don't just want to loll about the pools sunning and refreshing, the animated Italian social staff, enthusiastically, in various accents (some speak as many as six languages), get people involved in a spate of activities. On our first day out, for example, quizes, dart games, basketball, chess, dance classes, arts & crafts, and health & beauty tips were just a few activities. There's also a feature film shown daily in the Caruso Theater. Cabin stayers, though, will find several English options to watch on the TV, while they take advantage of 24-hour room service.