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A Russian cruise on the MS Kirov

(Third of three parts)

Last month I gave my impressions of Russia's past .and present economies. In this issue I will continue with details of our June 2002 Moscow-to-St. Petersburg itinerary.

Golden Ring towns

As our ship approached Uglich, our first port of call, we were enthralled as the vista of its delicate; colorful, domed churches and cathedral unfolded before our eyes. As we disembarked, a band on the quay gave us a rousing welcome, designed to put us in the mood for disbursing the appropriate tips, while more sedate pensioners quietly tried to sell bedraggled plants and flowers.

During the remainder of our cruise we would encounter many more of these bands -- a smart way to augment the musicians' income.

In the city of Yaroslavl, our subsequent stop, the excursion included a visit to the delightful Museum of Musical Instruments and -- a real treat -- an outstanding folklore performance where dancers and singers' captivated the audience.

From Goritzy, the next village, we toured the 15th-century Kirillo-Belozersk monastery, which developed in the 18th century into one of the largest and most famous cloisters, controlling 20,000 serfs, 400 villages and a salt mine. Its huge, fortress-like buildings, with massive walls illustrated its service as a northern bastion to protect Moscow's territory. Eventually, during the civil war, the Bolsheviks killed the bishop.

Our last and most fascinating landing before St. Petersburg was Kizhi Island, most of which is an open-air museum.

Our tour started with a walk toward a striking trio of wooden buildings: the 1714 Cathedral of the Transfiguration; the 1764 Church of the Intercession, and the Belfry, which was restored in 1874.

The cathedral's awe-inspiring domes and gables are made of aspen wood, which doesn't soak up the rain but instead lets it drip down from its surface. Interestingly, the wood changes color with the weather. The church cannot be visited, as it is ready to collapse. Its interior is held up by a metal support.

When I remarked about the beautiful weather we were enjoying, our guide responded that the previous day it had rained for 12 hours and that, to describe the climate, the islanders have the motto, "There are nine months of expectation and three months of disappointment."

St. Petersburg

On the 10th day of our cruise we arrived in Sankt Peterburg (spelled in Russian without an "s"), which is named after Peter the Great.

Shortly after assuming full power in 1695, Peter, wanting to make Russia a modern country, left incognito on a tour of Europe to investigate Western techniques. To found his new capital of St. Petersburg he hired 1,000 Western architects.

St. Petersburg's Western character is evident in the elegant 18th- and 19th-century buildings that line the canals and the Neva River; in its broad avenues, which reminded me of Paris, and in its many waterways and bridges, which are reminiscent of Venice.

Of the many sites we explored, the most outstanding one was the world-famous, gorgeous Hermitage, occupying six grand buildings along the embankment of the Neva River in the center of the city. The main edifice of the museum is the imposing, baroque-style, 3-story, green-and-white Winter Palace, which was the principal residence of the Russian czars since the 1760s.

Inside the Winter Palace, ornamental staircases lead upstairs to opulent halls with mosaic floors and attractive chandeliers with the Russian emblem inside.

Over three million works of art from the Stone Age to the 20th century are on exhibit in the museum, including striking paintings by numerous European masters.

Our private city tour

To get a better idea how ordinary Russians live and shop, we arranged a private visit of the city ($18 per hour for guide and driver) through the Palladium Company (phone 011-7-812-2796584 or 2796644 or e-mail palladium@online.ru).

Our guide, Anna, first took us to her apartment, located in a dilapi-dated and dirty. 19th-century building. Looking at the stairwell, we thought we were entering a tenement. Indoors, her high-ceilinged residence presented a better picture with a roomy kitchen; a moderate-size bathroom with sink bathtub and toilet, and a huge living room/bedroom with, of course, a telephone and computer with Internet connection.

Unfortunately, upkeep had been nonexistent. Wallpaper, peeling off in huge rolls, revealed large fissures in the plaster underneath: All bathroom fixtures were cracked. She rented the unit for $150 a month from another woman who owned the apartment.

Afterward, Anna took us to a private market where most items did not a have 'a price tag, inviting the buyer to bargain. Those that did display the cost were expensive, except for a carton of 10 eggs for 15 rubles (45[cents]), which even our guide said was cheap.

A typical clothing store nearby sold apparel made in China and Turkey that was expensive as well as of poor quality. Anna told us she made her own garments, since it was impossible to buy something decent at a reasonable. cost.

A kitchen store displayed only expensive German wares with prices similar to those in Western Europe.

Our guides

The MS Kirov has four permanent excellent guides on board who work nonstop from May to October. For the sightseeing excursions, passengers are divided into groups and transported by buses marked, in our case, with the letters A, B, C and D. Once you have chosen your bus, you stay with it for the rest of the trip.

Each coach has the same guide throughout. Our guide, Misha Ryaqbokorov, was outstanding.

Practicalities

MONEY -- Most Russians accept American dollars, which they put under their mattresses. The total hoard is estimated at $1.5 billion.

However, in some locations (such as the metro and post offices) you have to pay in rubles. The equivalent of $50 in Russian currency is ample to last you through the trip. You can settle your shipboard account with any leftover money.

The best place to obtain rubles is at the Bankomat (ATM) upon arrival at the airport. Bankomats in other locations often add a surcharge.

GUIDEBOOK -- For additional information about Russia, consult the Lonely Planet Guidebook "Russia, Ukraine & Belarus," second edition (2000).

DRESS CODE -- Note that you can wear shorts only on the ship.

MOSCOW-ST: PETERSBURG CRUISE -- Viking River Cruises offers 10-, 11- and 14-night MoscowSt. Petersburg (or reverse) cruises from May through September. Contact Viking River Cruises at 21820 Burbank Blvd., Woodland Hills, CA 91367; call 800/707-1287, e-mail info @ vikingrivers. corn or visit www. vikingrivers. corn.

Conclusion

Should you go on this voyage? My answer is a resounding "Yes." It is one of the best tours Flory and I have ever taken.

I want to express my thanks to the staff of the MS Kirov for their extraordinary kindness and helpfulness and to Viking River Cruises for the courtesy extended to me.

I also want to thank the Russian people for their respect of the elderly.

Philip and Flory Wagenaar's trip was partially discounted by Viking River Cruises. Dr. Wagenaar welcomes questions but may not be able to answer them individually. Write to him at 6556 50th Ave. NE, Seattle, WA 98115; e-mail pwagenaar@ qwest.net.