Western caribbean cruise

It was a starry night off the coast of Barbados and I was standing on the bridge of the SPV Royal Clipper. The 439-foot, 5,000-ton vessel--the world's largest fully rigged sailing ship--had just pulled away from the dock in Bridgetown. The captain was shouting orders, and from the clipper's five towering masts more than three dozen square white sails unfurled, capturing the breeze. The temperature was a balmy 82 degrees, but when I looked up at the quilt-work of canvas, I felt a chill. I may as well have been aboard an 18th century schooner with "Master and Commander" Russell Crow at the helm. This was no ordinary voyage.

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If your idea of a Caribbean cruise includes hundreds of people fighting for poolside lounge chairs, below-deck Broadway reviews, the ring of slot machines, discotheques, elevators and umbrella drinks, then the Royal Clipper is not for you. If, on the other hand, you want to explore remote islands aboard an authentic Tall Ship, with the wind in your face and waves lapping the hull--while you enjoy fine dining, outstanding service, luxurious accommodations and good conversation--then this cruise is for you.

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Our particular week-long voyage had an ambitious itinerary on tap, a Western Caribbean jaunt that included St. Lucia, Isle des Saintes, Antigua, St. Kitts, Dominica, Martinique and Barbados. Each evening our charming and informative cruise director Frederic gave briefings on the following day's port. Fluent in six languages, he seamlessly switched between English, German and French to accommodate our group. He had to; our 179 well-traveled fellow passengers hailed from 14 different countries, including the UK, Germany, Switzerland, Sweden, the Russian Federation and France.

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Because most of each day was spent in port, our sailing took place largely at night--and the Royal Clipper is a true sailing ship. This replica of the German tall ship Preussen is outfitted bow to stern with maritime gear, including winches, cables, lines and so forth. But there the similarity with a rough-and-tumble wooden five-master from the days of Admiral Nelson ends. The modern amenities begin with a sophisticated stabilization system, and extend to the well-appointed cabins--roomy with a nautically themed motif and mahogany and teak woodwork. All but six have portholes and feature marble baths, TVs and telephones. Deluxe cabins include a private veranda, gigantic windows, a comfortable sitting area, mini-bar and whirlpool bath. With a dedicated crew of 106, the rooms and passengers are well tended, including twice-a-day steward service with evening turndown and a chocolate on the pillow.

Even with the vessel's full complement of sailing gear, there's still plenty of room for relaxing--we frequently plopped down at one of three pools on deck, with ready supplies of plush blue beach towels nearby. In each port there was frequent tender service from the ship, so we did eventually drag ourselves to shore, where the crew arranges a variety of excursions. One of our favorites: a narrow-gauge scenic railway ride across St. Kitts. The railway, originally built to deliver sugar cane from the fields to mills in the capital city of Basseterre, runs along the northeastern coast of the island and provides exceptional views. For those feeling particularly energetic, a host of watersports are also available at each port; in Antigua the ship's watersports team set up mobile headquarters on the beach, offering complimentary sailboards, kayaks, banana boats and Zodiac rides. Luckily for us, the water was too choppy for first-time water-skiers, so we hit the beach barbeque instead. Those of our shipmates who were diving fanatics raved about the quality of the equipment and the fact that they could dive every day.

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One of the best parts of the voyage was the opportunity to visit ports that most big cruise ships can't reach. Our favorite stop was the charming Isle de Saintes off the coast of Guadeloupe, where we rented scooters and later strolled down the main street of the picture-perfect seaside town. We got a taste of Dominica, too, another unspoiled island known for its rainforests, rivers and waterfalls. Each day ended with the ritual of watching the sun set to the sound of bagpipes (played by the captain!) as we sailed off to our next destination.

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We kicked off most evenings with predinner drinks in the roomy open air bar in the aft of the ship. Then it was off to the dining room, handsome with its deep red-velvet upholstery, dark woods, spiral staircase and nautical artwork; the top of its three-level atrium is actually the glass bottom of the main swimming pool, adding an interesting light to the room.

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Of course, even on a Tall Ship, no account of a cruise is complete without commentary on the cuisine--and the Royal Clipper's food was exquisite. Breakfasts were not to be missed, with an extensive buffet of pancakes, French toast, fresh-baked rolls, fresh fruit and a world-class chef at the omelet station. The superb lunches were also served in a leisurely buffet style; one of our favorites featured a fine selection of sushi. Choices for dinner included an extraordinary chateaubriand, rack of lamb and fresh Maine lobster, followed by baked Alaska, creme brule, tiramisu and other dreamy desserts.

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To work off those calories, the ship also sports a gym complete with exercise bikes, weight machines and treadmills. We managed to catch a glimpse of it while en route to the ship's spa, another slice of heaven. We ended that particular day reading a book in the ship's library--a comfy spot in the stern complete with a fireplace and leather couches. Lord Nelson himself should have it so good.

Star Clippers cruises: 1-800-442-0551, or www.starclippers.com.